List of climbers

This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (May 2008)

This list of climbers includes both mountaineers and rock climbers, since many (though not all) climbers engage in both types of activities. The list also includes boulderers and ice climbers.

Contents: Top - 0–9 A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

[edit] A

• Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov (1906-1992). Russia. Lenin Peak (1934), Khan Tengri (1936).
• Yevgeniy Abalakov (1907-1948). Russia. Communism Peak (1933).
• Louis Agassiz (1807–1873) Switzerland/United States. Published seminal work on glaciology in 1840, based on studies in the Alps.
• Major H.P.S. Ahluwalia - Scaled Mount Everest on 29 May 1965, as a part of the first Indian Everest expedition. Author of "Higher than Everest".
• Robert Alexander (born 1960) United States. First Ascents at Joshua Tree National Park. Professional guide. Established Outdoor Program at Cal State University at Monterey Bay.
• Pierre Allain (1904–2000) French alpinist who championed bouldering at Fontainebleau
• Bryden Allen - One of the "grandfathers" of Australian rock climbing. First ascent of Ball's Pyramid.
• Christian Almer (1826–1898), Swiss. Grindelwald guide; made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Mönch, Eiger, Fiescherhorn, Barre des Ecrins and Aiguille Verte.
• Ashraf Aman (1943–) First Pakistani climber to summit K2
• Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933). Italy. First ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska/Yukon
• Pat Ament (born 1946) United States rock climber and pioneer boulderer. Prolific author
• Conrad Anker (born 1963) United States. Discovered George Mallory's body on Mount Everest in 1999
• Melchior Anderegg (1827–1912), Swiss. "King of the mountain guides" from Meiringen, who made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Dent d'Hérens and Grandes Jorasses and of the Goûter and Brenva routes of the Mont Blanc
• Daniel Andrada (born 1975) - Spain sport climber who had climbed many 8a routes.
• Bernd Arnold - Germany. Prolific climber in Sächsischen Schweiz
• Armando Aste (1926-) Italy. Mountaineer Dolomites and Patagonia. Leader of the first Italian ascent of the Eiger north face
• Peter Athans- United States alpinist. Winner of the David A Sowles Award. Everest seven times.
• Matthias Auckenthaler (1906–1936) Austria. First ascent of the north face of Furchetta in the Dolomites.
• Peter Aufschnaiter, (1899–1973) Austria. Mountaineer and co-traveller of Heinrich Harrer (Seven Years in Tibet)

[edit] B

• Valery Babanov (born 1964). Russia. Only person to have won two Piolet d'Or awards, in 2002 for his solo climb of Meru and in 2004 with Yuri Koshelenko for the ascent of Nuptse East.
• John Bachar (born 1957), United States rock climber. Initiated extreme free soloing.
• John Ball (1818–1889) Irish. Naturalist and Climber, notable for his guides to the Alps. First president of the Alpine Club, founded in 1857. Link
• Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) Chamonix based guide. First ascent of Mont Blanc with Jean-Jacques Paccard in 1786.
• George Band (born 1929) United Kingdom. Everest Expedition 1953, First ascent Kanchenjunga 1955 with Joe Brown. Former President of the Alpine Club and the British Mountaineering Council.
• Henry Barber (born 1953); leading United States rock climber in the 1970s; advocate of clean climbing ("alpine style").
• Greg Barnes United States climber. Noted first ascensionist and guidebook author. Director of the American Safe Climbing Association.
• Richard Bass - United States businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete climbs of the Seven Summits (1985).
• Robert Hicks Bates (1911–2007) United States renowned explorer, alpinist, Peace Corp director and educator, accomplished numerous first ascents in Alaska including the first ascent of Mount Lucania in 1937 with Bradford Washburn. Also noted for his leadership in the 1938 and 1953 American attempts on K2
• Mark Beaufoy (1764–1827) early English climber in the Alps, made fourth ascent of Mont Blanc in 1787.
• Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (born 1923). Germany/United States. Prolific mountaineer, with many first ascents in the U.S. and Canada.
• George Irving Bell (1926–2000) United States Physicist, biologist and mountaineer. Masherbrum 1960. One of the five climbers on K2 in 1953 who fell but were saved by Peter Schoening.
• Gertrude Bell, (1868–1926). British explorer, mountaineer and spy; was instrumental in shaping modern Iraq
• Neil Bentley, (19??-). First ascentionist of Britain's first E10, Equilibrium.
• Josune Bereziartu (born 1972). Basque rock climber; as of 2005, she is the only female to have climbed the grade 9a/5.14d
• Didier Berthod - Swiss climber featuring in "First Ascent" movie by Peter Mortimor.
• Barry Blanchard (born 1959). Canadian alpinist and mountain guide; first ascents in the St. Elias range of Alaska.
• Mark Blanchard) Inventor of Silent Partner; several big wall solos
• Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989). United States mountaineer. Developed the Buttermilk bouldering area.
• Karl Blodig (1859–1956). Austria mountaineer, optician and journalist; first to have climbed all peaks in The Alps over 4000 metres
• Peter Boardman (1950–1982). United Kingdom climber and writer. Everest 1975, Changabang West Wall 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979. Died on Everest N-NE ridge with Joe Tasker in 1982.
• Walter Bonatti (born 1930). Italian mountaineer and writer. Solo of new route on the south-west face of the Aiguille du Dru in 1955. First winter ascent solo of the north face Matterhorn in 1965. On successful Italian K2 expedition (1954) but did not summit.
• Sir Chris Bonington (born 1934) United Kingdom mountaineer and writer. First ascents of Central Pillar of Freney (1961), Annapurna II (1960), Nuptse (1961), Central Tower of Paine (1962–3), Changabang (1974), Baintha Brakk (1977). Ascent of Everest (1985). Leader of many Himalayan expeditions, including four to Everest and successful 1970 Annapurna expedition. Knighted in 1996.
• Orrin Bonney - United States climber & lawyer. Former president of the American Alpine Club.
• Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) United Kingdom. Geologist and mountaineer. Former president of the Alpine Club. Made most of his ascents in the Alps. [1]
• Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) United States Alpinist; first North American woman to summit Lhotse; reached six of the 14 8,000m summits, including Mount Everest twice, most among American women; presumed lost in an avalanche on Genyen Peak in November 2006.
• Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia. Kanchenjunga (first traverse of the four summits) 1989, Dhaulagiri 1991 & 1995, Everest 1991/95/96/97, K2 1993, Makalu 1994, Manaslu 1995, Lhotse 1996/97, Cho Oyu 1996, Shishapangma 1996, Broad Peak 1997, Gasherbrum IV 1997. Died Annapurna 25 December 1997.
• Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956), British. Reconnaissance of Everest 1951, Cho Oyu 1952, British Everest expeditions 1952 and 1953, South Summit of Everest 26 May 1953.
• Bean Bowers aka Poroto; Patagonian legend
• Stipe Bozic (born 1951) Summited Everest twice, the first via a new route on the West Ridge in 1978 and second via the South Col 1989.
• Werner Braun United States climber. Noted for climbing Astroman at least 80 times. Also lauded for many successful rescues with YOSAR.
• David Breashears (born 1956). United States climber. Everest twice. Directed IMAX film Everest.
• Meta Brevoort (1825–1876). United States alpinist of the Victorian period. Aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge.
• Russell Brice (1952–). New Zealander, world record holder for the fastest single solo ascent without oxygen of both Cho Oyo and of Ama Dablam, leader of expeditions to the Himalayas.
• Jim Bridwell - United States rock climber. First one-day ascent of The Nose of El Capitan in 1975.
• Joe Brown (born 1930). British climber. Rock climbing pioneer who took British climbing to a new level of difficulty, numeous first scents in the UK. Third ascent West Face of the Dru in 30 hours, Chamonix, French Alps. First ascent West Face of the Blaitere Chamonix. First ascent of Kanchenjunga 1955 with George Band. First ascent Mustagh Tower, Himalayas.
• Katie Brown (born 1980). United States boulderer and competitive sport climber.
• Michael Brown (born 1966). American mountaineer and director of more than 25 adventure films. Climbed Everest four times.
• Jean Buridan (c. 1300–1358) Climbed Mont Ventoux for the view, before Petrarch (below).
• Hermann Buhl (1924–1957). Austrian climber. First ascent Nanga Parbat (1953), first ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Wintersteller, Schmuck & Diemberger. Died Chogolisa 27 June 1957.
• Alex­ander Burgener (1845–1910). Swiss mountain guide. First ascent Zmuttgrat of Matterhorn, Grands Charmoz, Aiguille du Grépon, Lenzspitze, Grand Dru.
• Adrian Burgess British mountaineer and photographer. Has made 25 Himalayan expeditions and summitted Mount Everest; is the twin brother of Alan Burgess
• Alan Burgess British mountaineer; twin brother of Adrian Burgess

[edit] C

• Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) United States. Extraordinary rock climber. Free climbed the Nose of El Capitan.
• Louis Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) - French scientist and Pyrenean pioneer.
• Kim Carrigan (Australia) One of the leading technical rock climbers of the 1980s.
• Carlos Carsolio Mexico. 14 8000m summits (1985-1996).
• Robert Caspersen Trango Pulpit first ascent in 1999. Norway's best climber in recent years.
• Riccardo Cassin (born 1909). Italian Alpinist. First ascents of north-east face of Piz Badile (1937); Walker Spur on north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1938); Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley (1961).
• Yvon Chouinard (1938-) Pioneer of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. Advocate of clean climbing. Founder of Chouinard Equipment and later Patagonia.
• Claudio Cima (1949–2005)-Italian Alpinist and writer.
• John Clarke (1945–2003) - noted Canadian explorer, mountaineer, conservationist, and wilderness educator, member of the Order of Canada and suspected of over 600 first ascents in the Coast Range of British Columbia
• Pete Cleveland - United States climber. Superpin (5.11, 1967). Phlogiston (5.13, 1977).
• Vern Clevenger (1955-) United States. First ascent Cholatse (1982) with Rowell, Rowell and O'Connor. Numerous first routes ascents in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.)
• Ian Clough (1939–1970) United Kingdom. First ascent Am Buachaille (1968) with Patey. First British ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in (1962). Killed on Annapurna.
• Doctor Patrick Cordier 1940–1998 France. First solo ascent South Face Aiguille Fou French Alps. Early solo ascent of The Nose El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California.
• J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) United Kingdom. First ascent Tower Ridge Ben Nevis. Nanga Parbat expedition 1895.
• Emilio Comici (1901–1940), Italy. 200 new routes in the Dolomites. First ascent Große Zinne/Cima Grande di Lavaredo north face, one of the six great north faces of the Alps
• Achille Compagnoni (1914-) Italy. First ascent K2 (1954) with Lacedelli
• William Martin Conway (1856–1937) United Kingdom. Surveyor, explorer and mountaineer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps).
• Kenton Cool (b.1973) England. Five time Everest summiter - UIAGM guide, 2003 Piolet d'Or nominee.
• W. A. B. Coolidge (1850–1926) United States - 1,700 expeditions in Alps, Alpine historian.
• Janne Corax (1967–) Sweden. Adventurer and climber
• Jean Couzy France. First ascent Makalu (1955) with Terray
• Peter Croft Canadian free soloist and author of Ski Mountaineering.
• Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) - Occultist, writer, and a pioneer of British rock climbing. Led early expeditions on K2 and Kanchenjunga.
• Michel Croz (1830–1865) France. First ascent Grande Casse, Castor, Barre des Écrins, Mont Dolent, Aiguille d'Argentière. Died on descent after first ascent of the Matterhorn (1865).
• Norman Clyde (1886–1972) United States. Pioneer climber of California Sierra Nevada.^[1]

[edit] D

• Art Davidson United States. First winter ascent of Denali (1967) with Ray "Pirate" Genet and Dave Johnston. Author "Minus 148"
• Johnny Dawes (1964-) United Kingdom. Rock climber, introduced 2 new grades in the British grading system for traditional climbs.
• José Antonio Delgado (1965–2006) Venezuela. Five 8000m summits (1994-2006). Died descending Nanga Parbat 22 July 2006.
• Catherine Destivelle (b. 1960) France. Sports climber and mountaineer. Nameless Tower (1990), Eigerwand (solo) (1992). Link
• Clinton Thomas Dent (1850–1912) United Kingdom. Caucasus, Alps, first ascent of Lenzspitze (1870), Aiguille du Dru (1878).
• Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy. Geologist and Mountaineer. Leader of K2 first ascent expedition in 1954.
• Kurt Diemberger (b. 1932) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Wintersteller, Schmuck & Buhl. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Diener, Forrer, Schelbert, Nyima Dorji & Nawang Dorji. K2 (1986).
• Peter Diener Germany. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Diemberger, Forrer, Schelbert, Nyima Dorji & Nawang Dorji.
• Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway. Sports climber and mountaineer. Climbed east face Great Trango Tower (1984) with Finn Dæhli. Summited, but both killed during descent.
• Lord Francis Douglas (1847–1865). Scottish alpinist. Died on descent after first ascent of the Matterhorn.
• Sean Duffy[2] United States of America. Mountaineer known for charity climbs, speed ascents, and developing Sawtooth routes.
• Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Leading German rock climber who died during World War I.
• Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) Swiss. Mountaineer and Himalayan explorer. Led German expeditions to Kanchenjunga in 1930 and 1931. link
• John Dunne (1968–) Established Parthian Shot (1990: E9, 7a). Other notable first ascents include Total Eclipse (9a) Malham, Divided Years (E10, 7a) Mourne Mountains.
• Mal Duff (-1998) Legendary Scottish climber with few peers, also an Independent guide. An Himalayan climber who unusually, died at Everest Base Camp.

[edit] E

• Oscar Eckenstein (1859–1921) - Alpinist, rock climber and boulderer
• Justin Edl (1984–) - Crack climber and boulderer
• Patrick Edlinger (1960–) French rock climber. Pioneer of 8a-c routes.
• Charles Evans (born 1912) - Alps, Wales, leader of Kanchenjunga first ascent expedition
• Jens Esmark (1763–1839), Norwegian mountaineer. First ascent of Snøhetta (1798) and Mount Gaustatoppen. Led first expedition to Bitihorn.
• John Ewbank (1948–) One of the 'grandfathers' of Australian rock climbing. Invented the Australian (Ewbank) grading system.

[edit] F

• Sue Fear (1963–2006), Australian, Cho Oyu 1998, Shishapangma 2002, Everest 2003, Gasherbrum II 2004. Killed in crevasse fall on descent from Mansalu 28 May 2006.
• Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947), German pioneer rock climber in Elbsandsteingebirge
• George Ingle Finch (1888–1969) Australian, pioneer of oxygen use, to 27,300 ft on 1922 Everest expedition. First ascent of 'Finch Route' on north face of Dent d'Hérens.
• Darby Field (1610–1649) first European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) in 1642.
• Scott Fischer (1956–1996), United States, Lhotse 1990, K2 1992, Everest 1994. Died on descent from Everest in the storm of 11 May 1996.
• Hans Florine (born 1964)- United States Speed Climber, World Record Holder
• James David Forbes (1809–1868) - early, first British ascent of Jungfrau
• Ernst Forrer Swiss. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji.
• Charlie Fowler (1954–2006) Notable United States free solo rock climber and high-altitude mountaineer.
• Mick Fowler United Kingdom. Technical climber, winner of the Piolet D'Or 2003. link
• Jean Franco (climber) - led expedition on first ascent of Makalu (1955)
• Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) - Alps, Scotland, Himalaya, Pyrenees
• Tom Frost. United States. Yosemite National Park pioneer. Climbing equipment manufacturer.

[edit] G

• Will Gadd - Canadian. Responsible for various hard mixed routes including the first M12.
• Makalu Gao - Taiwan. Everest (1996). On descent caught in a storm and overnighted near the summit and rescued the next day.link
• João Garcia, first Portuguese to climb Mount Everest, did it without auxiliary oxygen. Leading mountaineer in Portugal
• Rolando Garibotti (born 1971 Italy, living in the United States) Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and the Cerro Torre Traverse.
• Steve Gerberding United States, professional rock climber. Mr. El Capitan.
• Lester Germer (1896–1971). United States physicist, World War I fighter pilot and rock climber.
• Konrad von Gesner (1516–1565) Switzerland. Naturalist Early mountaineer in the Alps.
• Ivano Ghirardini (born 1953) France First Grandes Jorasses, Matterhorn, Eiger north faces trilogy solo in winter, 1978. Mitre Peak first ascent 1980.
• John Gill (born 1937) United States. Father of modern bouldering. Introduced chalk & modern dynamics in 1950s.
• Stefan Glowacz - professional rock climber
• Patrick Goodman (1977 - ) United States - professional rock climber, responsible for many hard first ascents throughout the globe.
• Serge Gousseault (1947–1971) France-Mountain guide Dramatic winter attempt with René Desmaison in Grandes Jorasses north face 1971.
• Dave Graham (born 1981) Maine Professional rock climber and leading boulderer.
• Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway. Professional climber and extreme skier made the 1.st ski descent of Everest North Face 2006.
• William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) - New Zealand, Selkirks
• Gottfried Merzbacher - Germany (1823–1946)
• Paul Grohmann (1838-1908) Austria. First ascents include the four highest peaks in the Dolomites (e.g. Marmolada (1864)), as well as the Hochfeiler (1865), Langkofel (1869), and Große Zinne/Cima Grande di Lavaredo (1869)
• Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992). Germany. Celebrated rock climber & boulderer. First 5.14d - Actione Direct (1991).
• Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) German geologist and explorer. First ascent of Peuterey ridge and Piz Scerscen. First European attempt on Aconcagua in 1883.
• Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finnish. Thirteen 8000m plus summits between 1993 and 2008. All without supplementary oxygen.

[edit] H

• Peter Habeler (1942–) Austria. First ascent without supplementary oxygen Mount Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner.
• Douglas Robert Hadow ( –1865). English climber killed on first ascent of Matterhorn.
• Lincoln Hall Australia. Everest. Rescued in 2006 after being 'left for dead' overnight at 8700m on descent from the summit of Everest.
• Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand. Seven Summits in seven months with Gary Ball (1990). Died in the 1996 Everest Disaster on 11 May 1996.
• Peter Harding Prominent British climber of the 1940s
• Warren J Harding - first ascent of El Capitan
• Alison Hargreaves (1963-1995) United Kingdom. First female unassisted Everest (1995), died on descent from K2 summit
• John Harlin (1934–1966) United States. Direct route pioneer. Killed on the north face of the Eiger.
• Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006) Austria. First ascent North Face Eiger (1938) with Anderl Heckmair, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vorg. First ascent Carstensz Pyramid (1962) with 3 others. Author of Seven Years in Tibet.
• Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) United Kingdom. 7 Summits (1983-1993). First female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998). Killed in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri.
• Reto Hartmann - Swiss boulderer
• John M. Hartog - first ascent of Muztagh Tower in the Himalaya
• Dougal Haston (1940–1977) United Kingdom. First ascent South Face Annapurna (1970) with Don Whillans. Killed in an avalanche in the Alps.
• Stevie Haston (b.1957) Outspoken UK climber/writer excelling in many aspects of the game most notable recently for cutting edge (world's hardest) mixed rock and ice climbing.
• Ben Heason - British, notable free ascent of the Angel Falls.
• Siegfried Herford (1891 - 1914) - British rock climber. Central Buttress, Scafell, (1914)
• Karl Herligkoffer (born 1917 Germany) - first failed attempt of Broad Peak (1954)
• Hugh Herr (born 1964) - Leading rock United States rock climber in the 1980s, with many hard first ascents in the Gunks and elsewhere. Double amputee (both legs below knee)
• Maurice Herzog (b. 1919) France. First ascent Leader first 8,000meter peak - Annapurna (1950) with Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terrey and Gaston Rebuffat. Became Minister for Sport. Past Lord Mayor of Chamonix, French Alps.
• Tom Higgins (1944- ) First and first free ascents in United States at Tahquitz, Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows, Southern Sierra, Pinnacles National Monument, Needles of South Dakota; also in France outside Chamonix. Link
• Lynn Hill (b. 1961) United States. First free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993).
• Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) NZ. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Tenzing Norgay.
• Alan Hinkes OBE (b. 1954) United Kingdom. 14 8000m summits.
• Yuji Hirayama (b. 1969). difficult onsight. World Champion 1998, 2000.
• Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) United States. Surveyor and mountaineer. Several first ascents in the Sierra Nevada.
• Jim Holloway (1954-). United States boulderer. Perhaps first to achieve V11+ levels.
• Steve House Solo ascent of K7 in 2004 (nominated for Piolet d'Or), first ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat with Vince Anderson in 2005 (won Piolet d'Or)
• Charles Houston (b. 1913) First ascent of Mt Foraker Alaska in 1934 and leader of attempts on K2 in 1938 and 1953.
• Alexander and Thomas Huber - German climbers and mountaineers. Free ascents in Yosemite, speed record on El Capitan, expeditions and free solos
• Charles Hudson (1828–1865) United Kingdom. First ascent Monte Rosa (1855). First ascent Matterhorn (1865) with Whymper, Douglas, Croz, Hadow, and the two Taugwalders. Killed on descent.
• Francois-Joseph Hugi - geologist, unsuccessful attempts in 1828 of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
• Tomaž Humar (born 1969). Slovenia. Extreme climber. Piolet d'Or in 1996 for a new route on the East Face of Ama Dablam. Solo ascent of the south wall of Dhaulagiri.
• Alexander von Humboldt - Chimborazo
• John Hunt (1910–1998) United Kingdom. Leader 1953 Everest expedition.

[edit] I

• Marcel Ichac France. Member (cineast of the first French expedition in Himalaya (Karakoram, 1936) and of the second (Annapurna, 1950). One of the greatest mountain film maker of his time.
• Toshio Imanishi Japan. First ascent Manaslu 1956 with Gyalzen Norbu.
• Jeanne Immink (1853–1929). Dutch rock climber. One of the earliest female rock climbers. Several Dolomite peaks have been named after her.
• Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004). Swiss guide. 371 Matterhorn ascents, last at age 90.
• Alberto Iñurrategi, Basque climber, all eight-thousanders (1991-2002).
• Andrew Irvine (1902–1924). United Kingdom. Died on Everest at approximately 8500m with George Mallory on 8 June 1924.
• R. L. G. Irving (1877–1969). United Kingdom. Alpine pedagogue and author.

[edit] J

• John Jackson United Kingdom. First ascent of Jackson's Route
• Ray "Pirate" Jenet - First winter ascent of Denali with Art Davidson Died in avalanche while skiing.
• Sepp Jöchler Austria. First ascent Cho Oyo (1954) with Herbert Tichy and Pasang Dawa Lama.

[edit] K

• Conrad Kain (1883–1934), Austria/Canada. Over 50 first ascents in the Canadian rockies, amongst which Mount Robson.
• Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970), Austria. Most (11^[2]) 8000m peaks by a woman.
• Harish Kapadia- born 1945 India One of the most distinguished Himalayan Mountaineers
• Beat Kammerlander (born 1959) - Austria sportclimber
• Hans Kammerlander (born 1956)- Italy. 13 of 14 8000m peaks. Messner partner. First to ski down from Nanga Parbat & Mount Everest.
• Bob Kamps (1931–2005) - United States rock climber. Pioneer of golden age of Yosemite climbing and 5.10 & 5.11 routes in America.
• Jürg von Känel (1952?-2005) - author of plaisir guide books
• Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) - Austria. First ascent of the Eiger north face.
• Mark Kaufman (1955) - United States. First ascent ridge spur 1978.
• Ron Kauk United States rock climber. Many first ascents in Yosemite. Stunt work for Hollywood climbing movies. Subject of several rock climbing movies.
• Jason Kehl (Born 1976) - United States boulderer. Evilution (V12)
• E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) United Kingdom. First ascent Monte Disgrazia, Mont Blanc du Tacul
• Mohammadreza Khalilighazi (born: 22 June 1967- Tarbiz, Iran) founder of Mountain Guide Committee (MGC) and Mountain Ecotourism Committee
• Clarence King (1842–1901) - United States geologist and climber, first director of the USGS, first ascent of Mount Tyndall,
• Colin Kirkus (1910–1942)- United Kingdom rock climber and alpinist
• Christian Klucker (1853–1928). Swiss guide, prolific first ascentionist in the Bernina Range and the Bregaglia.
• Claude Kogan (1919-1959), France. Born 'Claude Troullet'. First ascents of Alpamayo, Salcantay, Nun, Yangra (or Ganesh I). Reached 7600 or 7700 m on Cho Oyu in 1954, a long-standing altitude record for women.
• M.S. Kohli - Leader of successful 1965 Indian expedition to Mount Everest.
• Layton Kor - United States rock climber and mountaineer. Author of Beyond the Vertical.
• Dai Koyamada (born 1976) - Japanese Sport climber and boulderer
• Jon Krakauer (born 1954) - United States non-fiction author and mountaineer. Authoured Eiger Dreams and Into the Wild.
• Hans Kraus (1905–1995) - Born Austria, emigrated to United States, pioneering rock climber and one of the fathers of sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation
• Göran Kropp (1966–2002) - rode his bike from Sweden, soloed Everest without Oxygen and rode home.
• Julius Kugy (1858-1944), Austria-Slovenia. Considered the father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps
• Christian Kuntner (1962–2005) - Italy. 13 of 14 8000m plus summits. Killed by avalanch on 14th peak (Annapurna). link
• Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) - Poland climber, the second man to climb all 8000m peaks.
• Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) - Poland climber, pioneer of alpine style in high mountains.
• Toni Kurz (1913-1936). German climber who attempted Eiger north face in 1936. Died tragically during the retreat.

[edit] L

• Louis Lachenal (1921–1955). France. First ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog. Died in a crevasse fall, while skiing in Chamonix 25 November 1955.
• Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965-2006). France. 11 8000m plus summits, all without auxiliary oxygen. Missing at 7,600 m on Makalu, 26 January 2006.
• Raymond Lambert (1914–1997). Swiss. Member of the Swiss Mount Everest 1952 expedition. Reached 8611m with Tenzing Norgay, the highest point at that time.
• Josef Larch Austria. First ascent of Gasherbrum II 1956 with Fritz Moravec and Hans Willenpart.
• Craig Leubben - United States rock climber, guide, and writer.
• Pat Littlejohn OBE- Prolific British adventure climber and advocate of traditional climbing ethics.
• Pete Livesey - Influential United Kingdom climber in the 1970s
• Gerhard Lenser - first ascent of Pumori (1962)
• John Long - United States rock climber and writer. Author of the "How to Rock Climb" series.
• Erhard Loretan Swiss. 14 8000m plus summits (1982-1995).
• Klem Loskot - Austrian rock climber and boulderer.
• Alex Lowe, (1958–1999) United States. Great Trango Tower, Rakekniven - Antarctica & Sail Peak - Baffin Island. Killed in an avalanche on Xixabangma.
• George Lowe (born 1953) Many first acents. Was on the 1983 expedition to the east face of Everest. First Acent of that route, considered Everest's hardest route.
• Jeff Lowe (born 1949) United States. Many first ascents. Solo ascent South Face Ama Dablam, Direct Bonatti route on Grand Capucin, north face Mt. Temple. Creator of Ouray Ice Festival.
• Fritz Luchsinger - first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
• François Legrand - three times World Champion and winner of 20 UIAA World Cups

[edit] M

• Tim Macartney-Snape (1956 - ) Australia. Everest (1984). First to walk & climb from Sea Level to the summit of Everest (1990).
• Dave MacLeod - Scottish climber and all rounder. Established world's first E11.
• Paul Mahony (1955 - ) Canada Ice climber specializing in frozen waterfalls.
• George Mallory (1886–1924) United Kingdom, 1921,1922,1924 United Kingdom expeditions to Everest. Died on Everest at 8000+ metres June 8/9 1924.
• Steve Mammen (born ????) United States boulderer. FAs at Horsetooth Reservoir and around Colorado.
• Sergio Martini Italy. 14 8000m summits (1976-2000)
• Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France. Between 1903 and 1910 she became the first woman to climb most of the peaks in the French and Swiss Alps.
• Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France. Shisha Pangma (1993), Cho Oyu (1993), Lhotse (1996), Manaslu (1996), Gasherbrum II (1997). Killed by avalanche on Dhaulagiri, 16 May 1998
• Charles Edward Mathews (1834–1905) - Alps, Snowdonia
• William Mathews (1828–1901) United Kingdom. Founder of Alpine Club. First ascent a.o. of Monte Viso, Grande Casse.
• Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929). France. Walter Bonatti climbing partner. First Frenchman to climb Mt Everest (1978).
• Daniel Mazur United States. Everest, Lhotse, K2, Gasherbrum I and Makalu.
• Steve McClure - first Brit to climb 9a twice
• Duncan McDuffie - summits in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.)
• Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933-2007) - first American to set foot on Mt. Everest, as part of the International Himalayan Expedition of 1955.
• Ammon McNeely – (born 1970) United States Professional climber with many noteworthy first one day ascents and speed records on El Capitan, Yosemite and Zion big walls
• Chris Meadows - Australia hardman (1960's)
• Willi Merkl-German climber. Killed on Nanga Parbat 1934
• Alain Mesili (b. 1949) France. Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela. Pioneered routes in Bolivia.
• Günther Messner (1946-1970) Italy. First ascent of Nanga Parbat via Rupal face with his brother Reinhold Messner, died during descent.
• Reinhold Messner (1944 – ) Italy. First to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks (1970-1986). First ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Peter Habeler. First solo Everest (1980).
• Johann Rudolf Meyer - first ascents of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
• Hieronymus Meyer - first ascents of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
• Jean-Christian Michel - first ascents of Tawesche withYannick Seigneur1973
• John Middendorf (born 1959) United States. Big wall rock climber. First ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992) with Xaver Bongard.
• Gwen Moffat - British female climber, author of Space Below My Feet (1961)
• Kim Momb (1956–1986). First ascent of Kangshung face of Mount Everest (1983).
• Ben Moon - United Kingdom sport climber and boulderer, established the world's first F8C+
• A. W. Moore (1841–1887) United Kingdom. First ascent Fiescherhorn, Barre des Écrins, Piz Roseg, Ober Gabelhorn
• Simon Moore - Irish big wall climber and boulderer. First Irish person to climb E9.
• Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria. First ascent of Gasherbrum II (1956) with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart.
• Simone Moro 1967–) Italy. Winner of the David A Sowles Award 2002 for the rescue of Tom Moore on Lhotse. Lhotse 1994, Shishpangma 1996, Everest 2002 & 2000, Cho Oyu 2002.
• Patrick Morrow - Canadian mountaineer, first to finish both the Bass and Messner lists of Seven Summits (1986)
• Tomáš Mrázek - professional Czech rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005; winner of the World Cup 2004
• John Muir (1838–1914) United States. Conservationist and mountaineer. Summits in California and Alaska
• Norrie Muir (1948 – ) Scottish climber and prolific first ascentionist
• Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) United Kingdom. Alpine and 8,000er pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat.
• Don Munday (1890–1950) - - Canadian mountaineer, and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday, explored the region around Mount Waddington
• Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) - Canadian mountaineer and explorer. Explored the region around Mount Waddington.

[edit] N

• Yasuko Namba - {1949–1996} Japan, second Japanese woman to complete the Seven Summits. Oldest at 47, to summit Mount Everest on May 10, 1996. Died on descent at South Col.
• Nazir Sabir - Pakistan Most famous mountaineer from Pakistan
• Waldemar Niclevicz - Leading mountaineer in Brazil
• Fred Nicole - Switzerland rock climber, notable for his numerous first ascents of cutting edge sport routes and boulder problems.
• Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary.
• Edward Felix Norton (1884–1954) - leader of 1924 Everest expedition with Mallory and Irvine
• Sue Nott (1970–2006) United States. Technical ice and rock climber. Died on Mount Foraker with Karen McNeill. link, link
• Wilfrid Noyce. United Kingdom. (1917–1962). On British 1953 Everest expedition, reached South Col. Killed in Pamirs.
• Arne Næss (1912-). Norwegian philosopher and mountaineer. Led the expedition that made the first ascent of Tirich Mir in 1950.
• Arne Næss jr. (1937-2004). Leader of 1985 Norwegian Everest expedition

[edit] O

• Alexander Odintsov (1957-). Russian. New routes on the Troll Wall, Bhagirathi North Face, Trango Tower West Face, Great Sail Peak, and Jannu North Face.
• Cathy O'Dowd South African First woman in the world to climb Everest from both north and south sides (1999). Fourth woman in the world to climb Lhotse, the world's fourth highest mountain (2000).
• Juan Oiarzabal (born 1956). All eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen. Record 21 ascents of eight-thousanders.
• Adam Ondra (born 1993) youngest climber to climb 5.14d
• Dan Osman - United States, famous for dangerous solos. Killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping.
• James Outram - Canada, first ascent of Mount Assiniboine
• Attila Ozsvath (alpine climber) (1956-2002) Hungarian. First ascents: east face of Kedarnath Dome 1989, north face of Thalay Sagar, Spaltnik Golden Pillar 2000. Disappeared in 2002 in the K6 group of Karakorum. First successful Hungarian eight-thousander ascent in 1986, Shisha Pangma.

[edit] P

• Michel-Gabriel Paccard. France. First ascent of Mont Blanc (1786)
• Marie Paradis. France. First woman to ascend Mont Blanc, 1809
• Young-seok Park South Korea. First grand slam of mountaineering in 2005
• Edurne Pasaban (b. 1973). Spain. Eight 8,000 m peaks. One of only three women alive that have climbed K2.
• Pasang Dawa Lama (1912–1982). Almost reached the summit of K2 in 1939 with Fritz Wiessner. First ascent Cho Oyu with Herbert Tichy and Sepp Jöchler (1954).
• Tom Patey (1932–1970) Scotland. First ascent Muztagh Tower 1956. First ascent Am Buachaille 1968. Killed in abseilling accident. Author of One Man's Mountains
• Julius Payer (1841–1915). Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s.
• William Penhall (1858–1882). England. First ascent west face of the Matterhorn.
• Jose Luis Pereyra (1962–2003) Argentine–Venezuelan rock climber. Specialist in climbing Tepuys (in the Venezuelan jungle) and in speed climbing in Yosemite.
• Jim Perrin (b. 1947). Over 200 notable first/free ascents in Britain. Winner of the Boardman Tasker prize for mountain literature.
• Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969). United States. Rock climber active in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites before World War I
• Petrarch (1304–1374), Italy. Climbed, with his brother, Mont Ventoux on 26 April 1336. .
• Dean Potter United States. Innovated fast free climbing style; speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day.
• Eneko Pou (b. 1974) and Iker Pou (b. 1977). Basque brothers. Top rock climbers, have several difficult and speed ascents. Working in their project "7 Walls, 7 continents", free climbing seven emblematic walls in the seven continents.
• Chuck Pratt (1939–2000) United States. Rock climber. Yosemite pioneer.
• Paul Preuss (1886–1913) Austria. Early promoter of free climbing. Climbed 1200 peaks in his short life.
• Hristo Prodanov (1943–1984) Bulgaria. Lhotse unassisted 1981. Died on descent from unassisted climb of Everest in 1984.
• Christophe Profit (b. 1962) France. Spectacular achievements in Alps and K2 between 1982 - 1992. Currently well known Alpine guide in Chamonix area.
• Bonnie Prudden (b. 1914). Pioneering United States rock climber and exercise advocate. 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks.
• Karl Prusik. Austria. Introduced the widely used Prusik knot.
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque (b. 1981) Spain. Rock climber
• Ludwig Purtscheller, first ascent of Kilimanjaro in 1889

[edit] Q

[edit] R

• Lisa Rands - United States rock climber and boulderer.
• Michael Reardon - United States freesoloist and film producer
• Dave Rearick - United States rock climber. First Ascent of the Diamond on Longs Peak, 1960.
• Gaston Rébuffat (1921-1985) - France. Climber on 1950 Annapurna expedition. Alpine guide and author.
• Ernst Reiss - first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
• Sherpa Ang Rita (born 1948) - Mount Everest
• Alain Robert - French climber and builderer
• David Roberts - author; first ascents of Wickersham Wall (Mount McKinley), Kachatna Spire, and the East Face of Mount Dickey.
• Royal Robbins (born 1935) - Highly respected United States rock climber. Pioneer of modern Yosemite climbing in 1950s.
• Beth Rodden - United States rock climber. Married to Tommy Caldwell.
• Rich Romano - United States rock climber and prolific first ascentionist. Primary developer of the Gunks cliff Millbrook
• John Roskelley (born 1948) - United States mountaineer
• Fred Rouhling - French rock climber, notable for his 1995 proposal of the grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira
• Galen Rowell (1940-2002) United States. Photographer and mountaineer. First one day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro. First ascent Great Trango Tower (1977) with John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek. Died in a plane crash with wife, Barbara.
• Henry Russell (1834–1909) – prolific first ascentionist in the Pyrenees.
• Wanda Rutkiewicz - considered by many to be the best female climber in history, died in an attempt of Kanchenjunga in 1992.

[edit] S

• John Salathe (1900–1993) -born Switzerland emigrated United States, pioneering Yosemite National Park rock climber and inventor of the modern piton.
• Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France. Third ascent of Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent
• Albin Schelbert Swiss. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Diemberger, Diever, Forrer, Nyima Dorji & Nawang Dorji.
• Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Buhl, Diemberger and Wintersteller. First ascent Skil Brum (7360m) (1957) with Wintersteller.
• Peter Schoening (1927–2004) United States. First ascent Gasherbrum I (1958) with Kauffman. First ascent Vinson Massif (1966) in Antarctica. Saved five fellow climbers on K2 in 1953. Obituary
• Doug Scott (1941–) United Kingdom. Seven Summits. Everest (SW Face) 1975 with Haston, Baintha Brakk (descent with two broken ankles) 1977, Kangchenjunga 1979, Nuptse 1979. Former President of the Alpine Club.
• Araceli Segarra (b. 1970) Spain. Accomplished rock climber and mountaineer. Everest (1996). link
• Vittorio Sella (1859–1943)- Italian mountaineer and early photographs
• Chris Sharma (b. 1981) United States. Award winning rock climber. Featured in several rock climbing movies.
• John Sherman (Born 1959) - United States preminent helmeted toproper, mining shill and author, inventor of "V" grading system.
• Pemba Dorjie Sherpa, fastest ascent of Mount Everest, 23 May 2003
• Eric Shipton (1907–1977) United Kingdom. First ascent Kamet (1931) with Smythe, Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier with Tilman in 1951.
• William Shockley (1910–1989) - Nobel Prize winning physicist, proponent of eugenics. First ascent of Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953)
• Yannick Seigneur (-2001) France. First ascent West Pillar Makalu (1971).
• David Simmonite (1965-) United Kingdom. Climber and Photographer.
• Joe Simpson United Kingdom. Notably survived a fall and being left for dead on Siula Grande Touching the Void.
• Richard Simpson British Climber, repeats of many hard sport routes.
• Todd Skinner (1958–2006) - United States rock climber. Many first ascents, including first free ascent of the Salathe Wall in Yosemite National Park. Died descending Leaning Tower in Yosemite.
• Cecilie Skog (1974-) The first female mountaineer to climb all the Seven summits and both poles. She has also reached Mount Everest (2004) and K2 (2008).
• Laurie Skreslet (b. 1949) Canada. Everest (1982)
• William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929 United Kingdom. First ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876). Pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering.
• Frank Smythe (1900–1949) First ascent Kamet (1931) with Shipton, R Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen. link
• William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) - first non-African to ever climb in the Ruwenzoris
• John Stannard (born 1938) - United States rock climber and physicist. Early advocate of clean climbing. First free ascent of Foops and many other routes in the Gunks.
• Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) United Kingdom. Author and alpinist. First ascent Schreckhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Zinalrothorn.
• Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) United Kingdom. Deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition. Outspoken Alpine Journal editor, 1927–37.
• Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1894–1890) Switzerland. First ascent Wildhorn (1843). Founding member of Swiss Alpine Club.

[edit] T

• Junko Tabei Japanese, first woman to complete both the Bass and Messner lists of Seven Summits (1992)
• Joe Tasker (1948–1982) United Kingdom. Ascents of Dunagiri (1976), Kanchenjunga (1979), Changabang West Wall. Died with Pete Boardman on Everest on or around 17 May 1982.
• Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France. First ascent Makalu (1955) with Jean Couzy. Second ascent North Face of the Eiger 1949. First ascent in 1950 of an 8,000meter peak Annapurna Himalayas with Maurice Hertzog, Louise Lachenal and Gaston Rebuffat.
• Vladislav Terzyul (1953–2004) - Ukrainian climber
• Kevin Thaw (1967–) United Kingdom. many first and notable ascents.
• Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austria. First ascent Cho Oyu (1954) with Sepp Jochler and Pasang Dawa Lama.
• Bill Tilman - Africa, Himalaya
• Luis Trenker, mountaineer, film director and writer (born in Austria-Hungary, what is now Italy)
• Sonnie Trotter (1979–) Canada. Award winning climber, known for hard trad climbing.
• Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) - first ascent of Aletschhorn (1859)
• Mark Twight - United States alpinist, advocate of "Light and Fast" style of mountaineering.
• John Tyndall (1820–1893) - Alps, scientist, first ascent of Weisshorn (1861)

[edit] U

• James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) United States. Noted author, and mountaineer.
• Ugur Uluocak (1962–2003) Turkey. Mountaineer, photographer and editor. Died while climbing Mount Alarcha in Kyrgyzstan.
• Hong-gil Um (b. 1960) Republic of Korea. The first mountaineer to climb the highest 16 points on Earth.
• Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) United States. First ascent of the West Ridge of Everest 1963, with Tom Horbein. Killed in an avalanche on Mount Rainier on 22 May 1979.
• Patxi Usobiaga (b. 1980) Basque. 2007 and 2006 sport climbing World Champion. link
• Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) Italy. Mountaineer, known for opening new mountain routes. Died on Nanga Parbat.

[edit] V

• Patrick Vallencant (June 9, 1946 - March 28, 1989) France. An alpinist/skier and pioneer in ski mountaineering.
• Iván Vallejo (b. 1959) Ecuador. Sixteen 8000ers without artificial oxygen between Sep 1997 and May 2008 (Everest and Broad Peak twice).
• Erich Vanis (1928–2004) Austria. Mountaineer, alpinist, and author
• Ed Viesturs (b. 1959) United States. First United States climber to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks; second person to climb them without supplementary oxygen
• Antoine de Ville France. Artillery officer climbed Mont Aiguille in 1492
• Ludwig Vörg Germany. First ascent of the Eiger.

[edit] W

• Horace Walker (1838–1908) United Kingdom. First ascent of Mount Elbrus, Grandes Jorasses, Barre des Ec