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Alexander McQueen CBE (born Lee Alexander McQueen, 17 March 1969) is an English fashion designer.
[edit] BiographyBorn in the East End of London, he is the son of a taxi driver, McQueen started making dresses for his three sisters at a young age and announced his intention of becoming a fashion designer. [edit] CareerMcQueen left Rokeby School at 16, landing himself an apprenticeship with Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard, then working for Gieves & Hawkes and the famous theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans. Whilst on Savile Row, McQueen's clients included Mikhail Gorbachev and Charles, Prince of Wales. At the age of 20, he spent a period of time working for Koji Tatsuno before traveling to Milan, Italy and working for Romeo Gigli. McQueen returned to London in 1994 and applied to London's most prestigious fashion school, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design to work as a pattern cutter tutor. Due to the strength of his portfolio he was persuaded by the Head of the Masters course to enroll on the course as a student. He received his Masters degree in Fashion design and famously, his graduation collection was bought in its entirety by influential fashion stylist Isabella Blow, who was said to have persuaded McQueen to change his name from Lee to Alexander (his middle name) when he subsequently launched his fashion career. [edit] Design historyAlexander McQueen's early runway collections developed his reputation for controversy and shock tactics (earning the title "enfant terrible" and "the hooligan of English fashion"), with trousers aptly named "bumsters", and a collection entitled "Highland Rape". It has also been claimed that he was on income support and that he needed to change his name for his first show so that he could continue to receive benefits. McQueen is known for his lavish, unconventional runway shows, such as a recreation of a shipwreck for his spring 2003 collection, spring 2005’s human chess game and his fall 2006 show, Widows of Culloden, which featured a life-sized hologram of supermodel Kate Moss, dressed in yards of rippling fabric.
Spring-Summer 1997, "Bellmer La Poupee": Inspired by Hans Bellmer and the study of automata, McQueen sends models down a large staircase onto a runway drenched in water. With Ziggy Stardust-inspired haircuts, Kate Moss et al show off trompe l'oeil embroidered sportswear, pants with frontal zippers, and pantsuits in dégradée. Outfits of mention include Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin in pink sequins, Debra Shaw in a metal contraption, and Stella Tennant in a fuschia colored mask of metallic thorns. Givenchy Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 1997: McQueen's first collection for the house of Givenchy, this mythological collection was shown in the Left Bank's Ecole des Beaux Arts building. While martial music pounded on the speakers, models (including Naomi Campbell dressed in a ram-horn headpiece) displayed outfits of delicate white silk. Other show-stoppers included nose-rings, python printed leather, gold-leaf encrusted corsets, and Marcus Schenkenberg dressed as Icarus. Fall-Winter 1997, "It's A Jungle Out There": A Mad Max collection featuring laser-cut leather, huge hair, and pagoda shouldered jackets with antlers. McQueen resurrects his denim and suede work. Spring-Summer 1998, "Untitled": McQueen simulates a rainstorm on a raised platform runway. Models show off cropped, leveled wigs, rubber eye-makeup, body conscious laser-cut suiting, and sadomasochistic, leather-bound outfits. The focus is on McQueen's corsetry and suit structuring. Accessories include jaw-bones, spinal-cord corsetry, and chain-mail masks. McQueen reportedly had wanted to call this collection "The Golden Shower." Fall-Winter 1998, "Joan": Models with bleached hair and shaven heads sport blood-red eye contacts, medieval chainmail brocades, red patent leather, and blood-red lace while navigating a stone slab runway. The show ends with a model, dressed in a red harness dress of sequin beading, standing in the middle of a ring of fire. McQueen exits with creative director Katy England, wearing the same eye contacts. McQueen would go on to appear on the cover of THE FACE magazine in the same get-up. The collection showed great editorial stamina when it was featured in "The Dark Knight Returns," an editorial collaborative between McQueen, Isabella Blow, photographer Sean Ellis, and designer Jeremy Scott for THE FACE. Spring-Summer 1999: Based on the relationship between man and machine, this sci-fi collection was a nod to kinetics, robotics, and "Les Amants." The finale of the show was marked by model Shalom Harlow, rotating on a wooden turntable, while mechanical paint guns spray-paint a design of black and yellow ink onto her dress. Fall-Winter 1999, "The Overlook": Drawing inspiration from Stanley Kubrick's "The Shining," McQueen simulates a snowstorm within a perspex, closed-in arena. While girls ice-skate around islands of orange-lit trees, models navigate a snowy tundra during a blizzard in the season's must-haves: Shaun Leane corsets in metallic coil, large knitted sweaters, farthingaled balloon skirts, and fitted frock coats. Spring-Summer 2000, "Eye": A collection commenting on Middle Eastern gender construction. Bathing suits studded with spikes are paired with chain-mail by silversmith Shaun Leane. Burkhas and niqabs conceal models' faces as they navigate a water- filled runway. The presentation ends with an acrobatic display of models dressed in stripped burkhas soaring over the crowd. A smiling McQueen takes his bow, revealing American flag boxer-shorts to the front-row press. Fall-Winter 2000, "Eshu": Models walk over smashed slate chips, displaying McQueen's celebration of the African deity. Polish model Karolina Malinowska, dressed in transparent silk and her hair caked in mud, typifies the look of the season. Tribal septal piercings by silversmith Shaun Leane shock the international fashion press. Spring-Summer 2001, "Voss": Within a two-way mirrored box, constructed to supposedly represent the confines of a psych-ward or mental institution, models throw fits and act out of their minds. Electro-shock caps compliment jigsaw puzzle tops, shoulders made out of gothic castles, and fine pleated suiting. The cherries on this McQueen delight were Jade Parfitt in a stuffed- eagle headpiece and Erin O'Connor in a laser-red sequin and feather ball gown. A plexiglass cube suddenly opens, its walls smashing to the ground to reveal McQueen's nod to Joel Peter Witkin's odalisque. The crowd roars. [edit] Givenchy appointmentThe president of LVMH, Bernard Arnault caused a stir when he instated McQueen as head designer at Givenchy in 1996, succeeding John Galliano. Upon arrival at Givenchy, McQueen had the nerve to insult the founder by calling him ‘irrelevant’. Thus, his first couture collection with Givenchy was unsatisfactory, with even McQueen telling Vogue in October 1997 that the collection was “crap”. McQueen toned down his act at Givenchy, but continued to indulge his rebellious streak, causing controversy in Autumn 1998 with a show which included car-robots spraying paint over white cotton dresses, and double amputee model Aimee Mullins striding down the catwalk on intricately carved wooden legs. McQueen stayed with Givenchy until March 2001, when the contract he said was "constraining his creativity" was ended. [edit] AccomplishmentsSome of Alexander McQueen's accomplishments include being one of the youngest designers to achieve the title "British Designer of the Year", which he won four times between 1996 and 2003. He has also been awarded the CBE, as well as being named International Designer of the Year at the Council of Fashion Designer Awards. December 2000 saw a new partnership for McQueen with Gucci Group acquiring 51% of the company, and McQueen serving as Creative Director. Plans for expansion have included the opening of stores in London, Milan, and New York, and the launch of his perfumes Kingdom, and more recently My Queen. In 2005, McQueen collaborated with Puma to create a special line of trainers for the shoe brand. McQueen became the first designer to participate in MAC's newest promotion: cosmetic releases created by fashion designers. The collection, McQueen, was released on 11 October 2007 and reflects the looks used on the Fall/Winter McQueen runway. The inspiration for the collection was the Elizabeth Taylor movie Cleopatra, and thus the models sported intense blue, green, and teal eyes with strong black liner extended Egyptian-style. McQueen handpicked the 3 cream shadows, coordinating eye shadows, two lip sticks, two lipglasses, three eyeliners, false lashes and Mineralized Skin Finish powder used in the collection. [edit] CompanyAlexander McQueen by the end of 2007 had boutiques in New York, London, Los Angeles, Milan, and Las Vegas. Japanese pop superstar Ayumi Hamasaki is one of the many celebrities that often wears Alexander McQueen, often seen in her "making of" videos and back-stage clips. As of 14 July 2008, the Alexander McQueen internet store has launched on the company website, allowing shoppers to purchase ready-to-wear and accessories online. [edit] Personal LifeMcQueen received press attention after the May 2007 suicide of his close friend, Isabella Blow. The two met early in McQueen's career, when Blow desperately wanted to meet the young designer, even resorting to calling his mother in order to arrange a meeting.[2] Rumors were published that there was a rift between McQueen and Blow at the time of her death, rumors that focused on McQueen's underappreciation of Blow.[3] In response to these rumors, McQueen told an interviewer:[4]
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